Across the bay

Posted on 25th November 2011 in Adventure

Yesterday, waking up with just under an hour to put myself and my bag together, I found a little extra time to repair a blossoming relationship with Louis (the good pup), which I’d jeopardized the night before by being complicit in getting him a vaccination shot in the butt.  (Due to the guard dog attack, I wanted one as well, but my friend, Princess Song (the dog’s owner), thought the vet was prejudice against humans.  Too bad.)  In any case, I hope things will be rosier when I next meet Louis.

In the end, I limped out the door with my swollen foot, banged up knee, and other battle scars, hopped on the wrong bus in my bewilderment, hopped off the bus and mended my way remembering the advice of Princess Song and Google: Red 100.  (At the time I thought the two were chatting about drinking or football.)  Eventually, I ended up at the bus station, waited around, and found my bus.  There, I moved toward a comfy looking seat in back, further comforted by the fact that the two young ladies ahead of me were obviously excited about my arrival.

As I read, the bus rolled along without much incident other than a flurry of excitement in the seat ahead of me at the site of snow.  This reverberated within my own heart and caused flurries there as well, which I hoped might leave enough of the powdery white stuff on which to float down a mountain on a board.

As we neared the destination, I saw the older of the two girls ahead of me, a high school student I guessed, was reading a pamphlet about Sakaiminato (in Japan).  I asked her about it, triumphant in the knowledge that destinations and ways of getting there were some of the things I had studied in Korean.  I passed the test (the kind you don’t have to pay for, which also provides more satisfaction)!

My brief conversation with the two girls led to a friendship for the remainder of our journey.  At the bus stop, the girls said goodbye, but up ahead the mother (and the other’s teacher) waved at me to get into the taxi she’d just hailed.  So, happy that I didn’t have to find my own way to the port, I hopped in with them.

Once on the ferry, I found myself in a room with a bunch of Russians who didn’t speak English.  I wandered around the ship, chatted with my friends, and finally took dinner.  Afterwards, I entered my room for a second, but left shortly thereafter when I saw a couple of the Russian guys bringing in a bunch of bottles of whiskey and vodka.  I knew they’d ask me to drink with them, and I wasn’t really in the mood to join in with a bunch of guys with whom I couldn’t communicate.

So I roamed the ship.  I stood for a long while on the deck of the ship, the sole being up there.  The wind snapped against my cheeks briskly and the ship rolled and pitched on the waves in a way I hadn’t experienced before.  Apart from having felt slightly nauseous since the morning (because of the dog’s bite?), I enjoyed it.  So I remained on the deck for a long while, doing some pushups and situps from time to time in order to keep warm.

Later that evening, I crawled into bed, but not before the Russian who remained in the room offered me some vodka and tried communicating with me in Russian.  Very kind of him, but I politely refused and tried to get to sleep.  The next three hours, though, were filled with rather loud Russian television, loud Russian laughter, and other comings and goings.  Fortunately, I had some earphones that blocked out much of the nose, but I wonder if it would be wise to request a room with Koreans instead of Russians next time.  I hate to be such a downer, but my friends told me of the same experiences with Russians on that boat.  I’m sure they’d rather party without the guilt of a sleeper in their room.

Before falling asleep, I also decided that I’ll run with a bat or big stick when I go back to Korea.  If any dog tries the same thing again, I shall severely incapacitate it.  Poor brutes.

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White fangs

Posted on 24th November 2011 in Adventure, Thorns

Tough day on the outskirts of Seoul?  Yeah, I guess.  But not without beauty.

First off, a rather kind host gave me the key to a beautiful apartment.  So this morning, I lolled around for a while.  Eventually I started listening to Not For Sale and felt many sadnesses sweep over me.

After thinking for a while, I decided to explore the the area in which my friend lives.  Someone’s gotta do it…  So I set off running toward a mountain.  However the mountain wouldn’t let me on for the ride and kept me always on the road, putting me off at every turn.

Finally, I gave up and turned across the river toward other mountains.  By and by, I came to a small path that wound up into a the mountains.  I followed it and wearing it out, kept going across the leafy floor until I hit a ridge whereupon another path lay waiting in vain for sunshine.  The path led me down onto a rather amicable road.  Or so I thought.

Heading up the road, I noted a few traditional Korean huts betokening a park.  Thinking to myself that I was on a lovely park road, I took in the rolling woods and the joy of going where my legs would carry me.  Before long I passed a sign that had a person crossed out and showed a picture of dogs and fire.  I thought it was rather strange; either dogs and fires were permissible in the park or it was warning me that dogs and fires were permissible, but people were not!  Very shortly after I came upon a temple-like building with large, white dog sitting in the courtyard.  I came to a halt and turned to jog back, but it was too late; the dog had seen me!

I continued to jog nonchalantly away, but the fanged beast, it’s fearsome brother a ways behind, raced up behind me and clamped down upon my ankle with 400 pounds of searing pressure.  I felt the pain shoot up the front and back of my leg, at the same time being tripped up, tumbled to the ground and rolled.  Quickly on my feet again lest the monster go for the throat I took an offensive position and growled loudly and menacingly moving toward it a step.  It backed up a few inches and I turned and bolted, the monster quickly taking up pursuit.  As it neared, I wheeled round and let out another loud growl, threatening it as best I could.  Then I was off running again.  This time it did not follow.

My hands, knees, elbows, and ankle bleeding, I ran nonchalantly past the workers on the road who were not kind enough to warn me of the impending danger ahead, and down to the end, where I found a large gate.  No wonder there were guard dogs.  Too bad I’d come from another way.  I went around the gate and jogged the three kilometers back to my friend’s apartment, where I patched myself up as much as possible, alternately soaking my ankle in salts to help prevent infection and icing to stop the readily noticeable swelling from the pressure injury.

So there I sat, chatting with Louis (a kinder dog, who also lives in the apartment) and waiting for my friend to come home and shower sympathy upon my battered self.  I’m not sure I got as much sympathy as I wanted, but I got wonderful company, and that’s much better.

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My new house

Posted on 6th October 2011 in The Good Life, Unnan

Last night I settled on my new house, and when I woke this morning, I knew I’d made the right choice.

My new abode gazes down upon Mitoya from halfway up a small mountain.  It is open on every side so that all my guests can come and go as they please.  My guests often play inside my house: the breeze with his autumnal toys, the leaves; dragonflies; butterflies; bumblebees; sunbeams, who hover just on the perimeter because they are so shy; crickets, who with their music, bring me sweet dreams as I sway in my rafter-hung hammock.  The more permanent residents here have spun me fine nets of silver that shimmer in the morning sun and keep out most of the unwanted guests, mosquitoes, which are so few now because they don’t appreciate the invigorating chill of autumn.  Around my house grows green of every hue, interrupted now and then by minute petals of violet and white, globules and clusters of red, puffer fish of brown, and leaflets of rusty orange that display the first vestiges of change.

I am quite content as I sit on the veranda with the sunbeams, who are not at all bashful when I come out to play.

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Into the mountains once more

Posted on 4th October 2011 in The Good Life

My gracious friend Susannah let me stay at her house for the past three weeks while she was back home in the States.  It was nice to have a house to live in for a while and I’m very grateful to her.  She came back today, and although I’m sure she would have let me continue to stay in the guest room, I decided it was time to get out for a while.

So here I am back in the mountains in my hammock.  It’s getting quite chilly as autumn rolls into full swing.  I love this weather—the exuberance that comes with the crisp air, the strains of nostalgic longing for life and warmth and friendship that appear with the first hints of death, the site of my own breath that tells me I live.

It must be about 10 C now.  I’m interested to see if my sleeping bag, wrapped around the hammock will keep me warm enough tonight, or if I’ll need to also throw a sleeping pad and other blankets in with me.  This is a good beginning test for winter camping.  Well, my nose is chilling and the warmth of down is calling, so it’s time to burrow into my bag.  G’night.

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East side

Posted on 7th August 2011 in Adventure

Watched the sun rise over the lake from my bed—one of the benefits of sleeping in a hammock. Had a bit more sleep before climbing out of my hammock and into the lake. Shallow lake, so I walked out and stood and waited. Nothing happened. It was just as had hoped.

Breakfasted on chocolate and fried banana French toast, washed some clothes, then Brent and I had a bit of a run. Upon finishing, we packed up, created clothes lines on the top of the car, and began the days trek, bidding adieu to a beautiful camp spot.

On the way, we stopped at “shiro shima” (white island) shrine (well… I guess the real name might be 蕪嶋神社 (Turnip Island shrine), a shrine that seemed to be dedicated to gulls and their feces, for most of the island was white with presents from the birds. It was also my first encounter with the Pacific ocean in Japan. The Pacific makes the Japanese sea look like a nursing baby.

Then we cruised down the east coast, getting our first glimpses of the destruction the tsunami and earthquake had caused.  Finally we arrived at our campsite and tumbled into bed.

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Aomori

Posted on 6th August 2011 in Adventure

Today, Brent and I went for a jog and our last swim on the Sea of Japan side while the girls took showers and prepared lunch. Then we were off. We drove. We stopped and had lunch. Some Japanese on a motorcycle mumbled something unintelligible to us and drove off. We drove. We stopped to watch the sunset in Aomori. We drove. We saw people lining up for a parade. We drove. We arrived at the campsite on 小川原湖 (Lake Ogawara) a in 都北町 (Tohoku town).

There’s a big bonfire and a good number of people. Seems like a lovely place.

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Superpowers

Posted on 26th July 2011 in Wonderings

It was a little strange waking up this morning, knowing I had superpowers. Oh the possibilities.

***

Yesterday, I walked out of サンチェリヴァ (San-Cherriver ), the local shopping center, and headed down the sidewalk to my car. I had a bag in one hand, while with my other, I was checking something on my PDA. Suddenly, out of the corner of my eye, I saw a large object moving rapidly towards me. I looked up and instinctively reached out my hand to stop whatever it was from running into me. It was a mid-sized delivery truck. I touched the snub-nosed front and it stopped 50 cm from me. The driver looked surprised, then apologetic. I gave him a half smile, waved at him, and continued on my way down the sidewalk.

In the moment before the truck would have struck me, my heart had decided I needed more blood, so it was still slowing down as I walked to my van. I realized then that I had just stopped a rather heavy-duty truck from causing considerable harm to myself. I looked at my hand stunned. What as of yet unknown powers lay therein? What more could I do?

…then again, maybe the driver had employed JITB (just in time breaking). Maybe I’ll wait before performing field tests with other cars.

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Leaving Japan

Posted on 12th July 2011 in Wonderings

Lists that shall continue to expand during the next few months.

Reasons I’m looking forward to going home

  • Lunch-time conversation—I hate sitting in the teacher’s room and eating lunch in silence, so I usually go to eat with the students, but sometimes they have better things to do than talk to me.
  • I’ll be able to converse with nearly everyone.
  • 24-hour supermarkets

Things I’ll miss in Japan

  • My friends!
  • My students!
  • My coworkers!
  • Lunch with certain students

Things I may miss

  • The chimes in Mitoya that go off every day at 6 a.m., 5 p.m., and 9 p.m.
  • The chimes in Iinan an Kakeya that sound at 5 p.m.

Things in Japan I won’t miss

  • The ear-piercing war siren that goes off at noon in most cities.
  • Spending days surrounded by people in the teacher’s office, yet having little to no communication
  • A year of “silence”
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Reluctant soldiers

Posted on 6th July 2011 in Teaching

    It’s morning, just after the 10-minute homeroom meeting and before the first class begins. The students are walking into the office one by one, in the usual, orderly fashion, delivering their homework to the benign teacher who gave them their orders. Like reluctant soldiers, they stop at the door, say the name of the teacher for whom they are searching, followed by their own name (family name, given name), and rounded off by their class: Kurokawa Sensei, please; I’m Watanabe, Ryu; 1st grade, 3rd class. Then they deliver their notebook and exit the room with an “excuse me for bothering you” on their way out the door. All very tidy and…

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Zatoichi: The Last

Posted on 2nd July 2011 in Wonderings

I just watched Zatoichi: The Last. Interesting; however, it was a typical Japanese film: on the whole, hopeless. Well, perhaps I can take a lesson from it anyway: Those who live by the sword, die by the sword. I’d best sheathe mine while there’s still time.

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